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HOW TO BUY PEARLS - A PEARL BUYING GUIDE
The value of a pearl or its overall quality is measured by a combination of seven factors: pearl luster, nacre thickness, surface texture, shape, size, color, and matching.
These seven characteristics serve as simple key criteria for buying cultured pearls.
Pearl Luster:
Luster is the amount of light that reflects off of a pearl’s surface giving the pearl its iridescent inner glow and outer reflection. Many experts believe the luster of a pearl is the most important factor in considering a pearl’s value. High luster is the result of light reflecting throughout numerous thick layers of nacre and, of course, the thicker the nacre, the more durable the pearl. Pearls designated as high luster will have a deep vibrant reflection, whereas low luster pearls will appear dull or flat.
Pearl Nacre
Nacre thickness is the coating that forms around the pearl when a foreign object is inserted into the freshwater mussel or saltwater oyster. The nacre’s thickness is determined by the length of time that the pearl is allowed to grow and by environmental conditions. The thicker the nacre, the more durable and long lasting the pearl will be and usually the higher the luster. Freshwater pearls are almost all nacre, Tahitians up to 50% nacre, and Akoya’s up to 15%. Jewelry experts can estimate nacre thickness by viewing the pearl’s drill holes, but it is most accurately determined by x-ray technology.
Surface
Surface texture is a pearl’s complexion that can vary from unblemished (clean or near flawless) to very blemished (heavy to medium pits, marks, or bumps). The most preferred surface texture of a cultured pearl is clean with minimal blemishes. Because pearls are a product of nature, no pearl is truly flawless (a sign of authenticity), and higher luster pearls will conceal blemishes better. It is best to check a pearl’s complexion close up and under good lighting. When viewing pearls via the Internet, it is very important that the website provide a clear close-up photo of the pearl jewelry.
Shape
Cultured pearls can be officially classified into three categories of eight shapes which include: Spherical with round and near round shapes, Symmetrical with oval, button, and drop shapes, and Baroque with semi-baroque, baroque, and circled shapes. Round pearls are the most desired and usually the most valuable. Perfectly round pearls are extremely rare. Non-round pearls in the Symmetrical and Baroque shape categories are also very popular and often worn because they are very fashionable and uniquely styled.
| Spherical: | Round | Near Round
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| Symmetrical: | Oval | Button | Drop |
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| Baroque: | Semi-Baroque | Baroque | Circled |
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Size
Pearl size is measured in millimeters (mm) rounded off to the nearest ½ mm and can range from less than 1.0mm to over 20mm. A round and near round pearl is measured by its diameter; whereas non-round pearls are measured in length and width. Typically the larger the mm size the more rare and expensive the pearl.
The size of cultured pearls varies based upon: the size of the mussel or oyster, the size of the nucleus tissue or bead, and the time the mussel or oyster spends in the water harvesting the pearl. Price variation increases significantly for Freshwater and Akoya pearls for each ½ mm beyond 8.0mm and above because 8mm is more rare, difficult to harvest, and a more fashionable size. South Sea and Tahitian pearls have a greater price increase over 15mm for the same reasons.
The size of the pearl selected is a personal decision most often based upon the recipient’s age, the purpose of the gift, and the budget of the buyer. Gallery of Pearls offers suggestions for selecting pearl size under the Pearl Guidelines section in the Education area of our website.
Color
There are 3 color categories to pearls: bodycolor, overtone, and orient.
Pearl bodycolor is the overall color of the pearl and typically include white, cream, gold, gray, black, blue, green, pink, violet, and numerous hues in between. Overtone refers to the translucent color(s) (usually pink, silver, or green) that overlie the bodycolor. Orient is the iridescent, rainbow color that shimmers above or below a pearl’s surface usually found in irregular shaped pearls. This prismatic affect is displayed in pearls with thick multi-layer nacre. Note that not all pearls display all three color categories.
Color preference is always based upon personal taste and sometimes the wearer’s skin tone. People with light colored skin may prefer light bodycolors and rose overtones, while those with medium to dark skin may prefer dark pearls with a silver or gold overtone. White pearls represent classic pearl jewelry and are the most versatile color worn for any occasion. Although rose and silver overtones are popular, overtones may not be as noticeable on pearls when worn because pearls can reflect other surrounding colors. In general, dark colored pearls like black or deep blue are popular and usually more expensive than light colored pearls. Also, natural colored pearls versus manually colored pearls are more valuable but not necessarily preferred.
Matching
Matching refers to the uniformity of pearls in jewelry. Pearl uniformity is how closely all the pearls on a necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings complement each other in relation to: pearl size, shape, color, luster, nacre and surface quality. The more closely the pearls are matched the more valuable the pearl jewelry. AAA grade pearls refers to excellently matched pearls. AA grade pearls are rated good, and A grade pearls are considered fair in matching. Sometimes pearls are intentionally mismatched to create a unique design or striking effect, but the look should still appear well balanced. Cultured pearls are never exactly the same and master jewelers often go through 1000’s of pearls to properly match each pearl jewelry piece.
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